When we got back from holidays I could get on with building the new engine. The pistons and exhaust manifold had been machined so I collected them from Alex at Maynards.
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Modified pistons, height reduced and pockets re-cut. |
And now they don't come above the block face!
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Modified pistons fitted and more like it should be. |
I sorted through my various spares to find the best set of sprockets and guides to use and fitted a new tensioner making sure it was a trusted type - not one of the dreaded Rolon ones that regularly shed the rubber pad like the one is this picture.
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Typical Rolon failed tensioner, the rubber pad has come off |
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I chose the best ones to use out of this lot |
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Chain fitted with new tensioner, note spacer to aid setting up. | |
This was all to do a test fitting so I could make sure there was enough clearance between the valves and pistons when the engine turned over. I used some Blutack in the valve pockets to act as a check, if it got squashed too thin I would have been in trouble, but all was well.
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Blutack in valve pockets to test valve clearance. |
Having checked the valves would not hit the pistons I could now fit the head and timing chain stuff properly. This went well until I checked the camshaft timing marks. I tried setting the chain in different places on the sprocket and also tried turning the sprocket 180 degrees but there was no way to get the cam lined up properly.
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Timing marks are close but not correct. |
Next thing was to try using one of my other spare cam sprockets to see if that would give a better result and look what I got, a perfect setting!
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That is more like it! Spot on. |
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Starting to look like an engine. |
Next thing with the head on and torqued down was the water pump and cover. I had a new old stock 12 vane pump which slotted in very easily and a new cover to match so they went on with the gaskets chosen to give the correct clearance .
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Heater outlet plate on rear of th head |
The distributor that came with the ex rally car engine looked pretty scruffy but testing the shaft for play it seemed in reasonable condition so I thought it would be worth stripping and cleaning to check. Turns out it was in very good condition with no noticeable wear in the shaft so after a good clean up it all went back together and into the new engine.
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Looks a bit rough? |
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But the shaft is in excellent condition. |
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And no wear in the bearings. |
The distributor also had Lumenition installed and it tested OK when I connected it to an amplifier module so that is a bonus.
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Distributor and water pump fitted. |
Next job was to sort out the inlet manifold for the twin 45DHLA carbs that goes on the engine.Its a new one so has never been used before but a test fit found that it fouled on the water pump outlet. There should be a small gap between the top of the water pump cover and the underside of the manifold. There is a short link pipe with O rings that fits inside them and joins the two together. I had to file about 1/16" off both the manifold and the pump cover to achieve the gap required. Best to find out now rather than when the engine is in the car!
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Picture showing correct small gap after filing. |
I found a piece of steel in my scrap bin that fitted perfectly to hold the flywheel while I torqued up the bolts and fitted the clutch cover.
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"special tool" from the scrap bin holds the flywheel |
The clutch went on with a new cover and a new old stock competition friction plate that I had bought several years ago and the engine is now ready to fit in the car.
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NOS competition clutch plate |
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STR 0415 NOS competition clutch plate |
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Engine ready to fit |